How To Identify If Your Kitty Is Dehydrated.

How to tell your little one is dehydrated? As a loving kitty owner, you need to be very aware of your kitty’s behavior at all times so you can read the signs early. If you suspect kitty is not feeling well, pinch the skin up and down her back. Does it stay pinched and loose when you let go? Then she’s dehydrated. Make it a habit every day when you’re loving on your kitty to do the pinch test. Also, does she hover/linger over her water dish? She’s dehydrated. So, establish the good habit to support her kidney health by ensuring that she’s always hydrated. How do I do that? First of all, START EARLY. Don’t wait until she shows signs of kidney trouble. When the signs start, she’s already in trouble.

A Good Fountain Is Excellent Support For Kitty’s Hydration And Health.

The best way to help your kitty stay hydrated, hands-down, is with a food-grade ceramic drinking fountain and a good filter. Kitties are naturally fascinated by running water, which is a big help. Just leave a faucet on somewhere in the house and watch them come running. No doubt you’ve seen the cute videos on YouTube of kitties and faucets. I’ve discovered that even a kitty that’s not feeling well will hang around a fountain or running faucet. You can use this to your kitty’s advantage. Don’t wait for her to develop signs of poor kidney health. Start her on a fountain when she’s young to help discourage kidney troubles down the road.

Choosing A Fountain.

Having fresh water available to kitty at all times is paramount. Having a running fountain of fresh filtered water is even better, because it attracts her even when she’s not feeling well. This is an especially important time for her to be drinking more water. There are many places you can buy pet fountains. Definitely avoid plastic units. Plastic harbors bacteria. Ideally, you want a “food-grade” ceramic fountain–food-grade ceramic like the dishes people eat and cook on, not the ceramic that art pieces are made of because art glazes contain lead.

After much online research, I found “Fountains by Ebi” (http://ebifountains.com/).

You can custom-order the fountain to your liking as far as size and look and what type of filter you want in it. I’ve been using my Ebi fountain for several years now, and I promise you from personal experience it is one of the BEST INVESTMENTS you’ll ever make for your kitty’s health.

Added Hydration Support.

A kitty that’s already dehydrated will have a tough time drinking enough water to re-hydrate herself, even at the fountain. In these instances, you can give her a little extra support with “sub-q” fluids. Sub-q fluids must be prescribed by your veterinarian. It’s like a bag of IV fluid that you see in hospitals. The bag comes with a line, and you can use 10-20 needles per bag depending on the level of distress your kitty is in, and how much fluid your veterinarian recommends for her.

Before You Run Screaming For The Hills, Hear Me Out.

Your veterinarian can show you how to give the fluids to your kitty. Don’t be afraid of it. You just pull up a pinch of skin over her shoulders and insert the needle under the skin. Don’t go any deeper into tissue or muscle–just under the surface of the skin. The first time or two you’ll feel awful, like you’re hurting her. I almost fainted, because I’m afraid of needles. So I was feeling guilty for kitty AND i was trying not to throw up. But you’ll quickly get the hang of it and be able to insert the needle without her even noticing, especially because you know you’re helping her.

The needle simply goes just under the skin, NOT into a vein or muscle. Her body will quickly absorb the fluids and she’ll be feeling like a million dollars again in less than 30 minutes. I’ve found that having kitty sit in the bathroom sink while I give her the sub-q fluids helps to discourage her from struggling. She seems to feel safe all snuggled down in it. And I’m not wrestling with her to stay still, so the whole process is easier on both of us. She relaxes quite comfortably in the sink for the two or three minutes it takes to dispense the fluids under her skin. When you’re finished, massage her skin at the injection site for a couple of seconds to ensure the fluids don’t leak back out, and Voila!  You’re done and she’s already on her way to feeling better. Sub-q fluids are lifesavers–the best and fastest support for a dehydrated kitty and for a kitty with kidney disease.

Sub-Q Fluids Are Tremendous Support, But Not A Cure.

NOTE: Sub-q fluids are not a cure for kidney disease. They simply offer her much-needed comfort and desperately needed hydration that she can’t get on her own by drinking water. I make it a point to keep a supply of sub-q fluids and needles on-hand at all times. In my rescue organization, we’ve saved more lives by having sub-q fluids immediately available right when we need them, rather than having to wait for a scheduled appointment and an emergency run to the vet. Hydration isn’t just a matter of the kitty’s comfort. It can be a matter of her life, and time and treatment are of the essence. It’s a glorious feeling to know you’re caring in such a great way for this precious little soul. Because of you, she has the healthiest, most wonderful life.

Here’s a cute video of Princess, a Milagro Senior (www.milagropets.org). She actually prefers to drink from our little fish tank instead of the kitty fountain. There are no fish in it, but Princess enjoys it so much we keep it set up just for her. And that’s cool, too. As long as it’s clean and she’s drinking, that’s the main thing. See how you can make the critical act of staying hydrated fun for your kitty? Be creative.

So your take-away tip on this subject – invest in a food-grade ceramic fountain for your kitty or, like Princess, a running fish tank. Be very sure the water is always clean, and always always always make sure she’s hydrated. If your kitty needs more critical care, ask your veterinarian about sub-q fluids.

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God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie.

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008.  Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post Hydrate Your Kitty And Save Her Kidneys. appeared first on BareFootPets.

I can’t count how many veterinarian appointments I’ve been late to over the years and even had to cancel last-minute because my cat would run and hide as soon as I brought out the carrier. Murphy’s Law very reliably dictated that, if I had scheduled an appointment, kitty would hide herself away until we missed it. And, even when I was fortunate enough to retrieve her from under the couch, I couldn’t begin to stuff her into the carrier without being shredded. She was not having it, end of discussion.

Frustration, as it turns out, became the mother of invention for me. I was forced to come up with a way to successfully transport my kitty without her freaking out and me getting shredded, and maybe even be on time.

Let Her Think The Crate Is Her Idea.

I stumbled stupidly onto this theory and, sure enough, that’s all it took. It eventually dawned on me that I had to let her think getting into the carrier was her very own smart little idea. And turns out it was pretty darned easy to convince her. I started leaving her carrier out in the house 24/7 for her to start feeling comfortable with. I put catnip in it, her favorite toy, a really plush blanket for her to cuddle up on. The fact that the crate was available to her day in and day out to play in and nap in made it less threatening, and allowed her to become overall at ease with it. She could get in and out of it at her own choosing, which was important to her. She was no longer afraid of it.

Safe Space.

Eventually the carrier became her safe space. Once she started napping in it every day, that was it – all fear was gone. So now, when it comes time to take her to the vet, all I have to do is close the carrier door and go. The beauty of it feeling like a safe haven is it helps to calm her when we ultimately end up in the car. She doesn’t cry anymore; she just sits quietly. Still nervous, of course, but not panicked. It is such a relief for me to know my cat isn’t going to have a coronary, and she gets through the whole event with minimal trauma.

When we return home after the vet, I always set the carrier back in its usual spot familiar to her, then open the door for her to come out, and I leave it in that same spot so she can continue her naps and playtime in it just as she’s come to enjoy. She knows now that the carrier is still her safe space, and it always brings her back home again too.

What a simple fix! Give it a try – put your carrier out for kitty to start “bonding with” so that your next transport is no longer a nightmare. You’ll both be grateful for the new calm.

God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie.   ?

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008. Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post For The Cat Who Won’t Be Crated. appeared first on BareFootPets.

This post talks to pet parents and rescuers alike. One of the toughest questions for a pet parent or pet rescuer to answer for herself is “How Many Is Too Many? Where do I draw the line?”  It’s a moral and emotional question that weighs heavy on the hearts of everyone who works hard to save the lives of homeless pets, always acutely aware that these precious little souls have no other hope than us. It’s never easy to answer, and more often than not, the answer is discovered through trial and error. The line usually must be crossed at least once, maybe more, and consequences suffered, before the line even reveals itself.

It becomes evident then how some rescuers end up on the 10:00 news labeled as hoarders and didn’t see it coming. A dedicated, well-meaning heart that couldn’t shut the door on a single life in need. After all, how do you tell one homeless pet to come in and live, and to the next pet in line, there’s no room for you here, knowing it probably will lose its life because you drew the line. This is a typical day in the life of a pet rescuer — tough business, even on a good day.

** Must-Haves For The Multi-Pet Home ** 

So, if you’re a pet rescuer, a foster, or just an individual pet parent wanting to grow your pet family, it’s critical that you achieve balance to avoid getting in over your head and compromising not only your existing pets, but your own wellbeing. The questions below are designed to help you focus on the big picture, and to use your heart and mind together to make the right decision for your home. As you answer each question, be painfully honest, as difficult as it may be. We’ll discuss each bullet point in detail below.

*** Am I experienced and capable enough to handle multiple pet relationships in my home?
*** Do I have enough square footage per pet so that I’m not over-crowding them?
*** Can I afford food, supplies, grooming, petsitting, and veterinary bills for another pet?
*** Will adding another pet compromise the comfort and wellbeing of my existing pets?
*** Will I be able to give equal time to a new pet without cheating my existing pets?
*** Will adding another pet upset the behavioral dynamic of my existing pet family?
*** Have I considered the ages of all the pets involved and the level of care they’ll need,
as well as my own age and how long will I be able to care properly for them?

** Houseful of Pets and Want to Keep It Smelling Ultra Beautiful? **
Here’s Your Answer!

The Number One Question.

I believe the number one question to ask yourself when considering adding another pet to your family is this — will it compromise the pets already in my home? If the answer is yes, then it’s not wise to add a new pet yet. Remember that your first responsibility is to the pets already depending on you.

Example: you really want a puppy, and you have an older dog in the home already. No problem, you figure, because you’ve got plenty of room, and you can afford it. You figure a puppy will brighten things up and be fun. So a new puppy joins the household. But — turns out the older dog can’t keep up with the puppy and gets frustrated or cranky; or maybe the puppy plays too rough and hurts the oldster; or maybe you just find yourself spending more time with the puppy because he’s more fun than the older dog. You become frustrated because you don’t know how to handle the contentious dynamic between the two dogs.

Next thing you know, you’re trying to find a new home for the older dog because he “can’t get along” with the puppy (as if it’s his fault). You just compromised your older dog’s wellbeing and broke a promise to care for him forever. The older dog is not to blame that things aren’t working out — it’s your fault for creating the wrong environment. It’s always on you as the pet parent to make it work well. But it’s the older dog who will suffer in this scenario because of your faulty decision, because now he’s headed to a cold, scary shelter that he may never get out of, and losing the home and family he loves and trusts.

So always look down the road and use as much restraint as possible to see the big picture and make the right decision for the pets already in the house, to whom you’ve already made a commitment. Don’t put them at risk by making the wrong decision, no matter how well-intentioned it may seem at the time. Until you can answer no to the number one question above, the other questions don’t matter yet.

It’s Not Just The Number Of Pets To Consider.

There are numerous variables to consider when determining what type of pet home you will become. Alterations often need to be made to ensure that your home and yard and lifestyle will properly accommodate a specific number of pets. Let’s say you’re a big dog person. Carefully consider the space each large dog needs to be comfortable. But also consider their ages and medical needs, and how active they are. If they’re mostly young and healthy, and you have the indoor and outdoor space available, then drawing your line at, say, five dogs might seem reasonable. If, however, you have big dogs who are older and need a higher level of care, which means higher veterinary costs, more time needed to care for them and comfort them, then you should draw your line at a much smaller number.Also consider the breed you’re interested in — a border collie is infinitely more active than a bulldog and will for most of its life need activities to keep him focused and happy.  Labs tend to become couch potatoes as they mature, while Boxers will always remain childlike and playful. Be sure to match the breed to your other pets’ personalities, and also to your family’s personality. Mismatched pets all too often end up in shelters through no fault of their own.

Another scenario – you want to really get involved in rescue and make a big difference by rescuing as many as possible, but you have a small home. Then consider smaller dogs, or cats. Obviously, most homes can accommodate more small dogs than big dogs. But also consider this: with each pet you rescue, be very mindful of the costs that each pet brings with him. Veterinary, food, grooming, training, petsitting costs — can you afford it?

Okay, I’ve Decided To Get Another Pet. What Else Must I Consider?

Now that you’ve got a picture in mind of what type of pet you want, you need to start looking at personalities. That is a huge deciding factor in how successful you will be at pet parenting. If your home is filled with pets who can’t get along, who bully others, who pick fights, or are afraid and never come out of hiding, and you’re not experienced to managed those relationships, then you’re not doing those pets any favors by taking them in. Rescue isn’t just about saving animals’ lives, it’s about giving them quality of life.

Pet parenting is very similar to child parenting. It’s on you to create and maintain a stable, harmonious environment in the home. If it’s not working in harmony, that’s on you to fix. There are many many resources to help you through tough moments that may (will) come. Your first response to conflict among your pets should never be to send a pet away, like sadly so many people do.

For every pet you bring into your home, you must consider how it will change all of the existing pet relationships. Consider it a trickle-down effect. If the presence of a new pet upsets an existing pet, the existing pet may take out his frustration on another existing pet, who may run and hide, and ultimately get picked on by the rest of the pets as well. Remember, dogs are pack animals. If one acts out, they all very well may do the same. If you are confident in your capabilities to handle such changes in stride, then adopt away!  🙂

If you’re new to pet parenting, then limit yourself for awhile to maybe just two so that you can grow into a competent pet handler. You could be a dog walker or petsitter for other folks in the meantime, to gain invaluable experience and still be contributing to pet welfare while you learn. Then, when you feel more ready, take on more pets as your level of experience increases.

Rescue Away!

The world needs all the pet lovers, rescuers, and pet parents it can get, Lord knows it does. And God Bless You for stepping up to get involved and help. Just be sure to prepare yourself properly ahead of time to be as successful as possible. Ask yourself the tough questions, be honest about your experience and capabilities, and how many pets you can honestly accommodate at one time.  And always feel welcome to “Contact Me” with any questions you have. If I don’t have a ready answer for you, I can find it.

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God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie.   ?

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008.  Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post How Many Pets Is Too Many? appeared first on BareFootPets.

Is the Kitty Being Picked On By Other Pets in Your House?

Typical practice is to put the litterbox in a corner out of the way. But there’s more to consider. Look closely at the relationships between all your kitties. If one cat bullies another, the one being bullied most likely won’t use the litterbox for fear the bully cat is going to jump him, and he’s probably right. If you put your litterbox in a corner or a small space, he’s going to get ambushed, and he knows it. So he figures better to not use the litterbox at all. If, on the other hand, you place the litterbox strategically so he has TWO forms of exit, then he can get safely away from the bully and won’t be afraid to use the litterbox anymore. I put my pets’ litterbox up on a long table with pet steps positioned at both ends. My kitties can come and go easily and quickly from both ends – they feel confident when they use the litterbox that they’re not trapped if the bully cat comes along at that moment.

Some litterboxes come with lids, because conventional knowledge says cats like privacy. This is true, but your cat becomes even more vulnerable to that pesky bully kitty because a lid reduces her getaway options even more. Out of fear, she probably will just stop using the litterbox altogether. Also, lids make it hard for the cat to turn around or move freely while trying to do her business. It’s just too cramped in there. She may avoid it for that reason alone. Do away with the lid.

Maybe Kitty Just Doesn’t Like the Litter?

Another reason kitties avoid their litterbox is they don’t like the litter. It may be the scent she doesn’t like, or the texture. So try a new brand – there’s lots out there to choose from. After years and years of experimenting, one that has become our favorite is “The World’s Best Cat Litter.” It’s natural, corn-based, doesn’t give off dust clouds like clay litter, so it’s MUCH better for the kitty’s health – and yours – not to be breathing that toxic dust cloud. It’s lighter weight, neutralizes odor well, clumps well, sticks less, and cleans up more easily than clay. An all-around ideal choice, one your cat will approve of. But do your own experimenting – kitty will let you know which one she likes, and that’s what’s important.

The LitterBox May Be Too Cramped for Her.

Way more often that folks realize, a standard size litterbox just isn’t big enough. I’ve found that my cats prefer something bigger where they can turn around freely and their little butt doesn’t hang over the edge. I use clear plastic storage bins by Rubbermaid or Sterilite – you can find them at Target, Walmart, Ace Hardware, etc. The sides are a little higher than conventional litterboxes, which is awesome because it helps to minimize tracking, so much less mess. Kitty can get in there and have fun just happily digging around, which is her nature to do. Plus, Rubbermaid and Sterilite bins are WAY more affordable than litterboxes.

Are You Doing Your Important Part To Keep It Clean?

Finally, the number one reason cats don’t use litterboxes is you’re not keeping it clean. Cats like to be clean–they don’t want to be stepping in their own poop and pee anymore than you do. Don’t be a lazy pet owner–clean your cat’s litterbox twice a day, more if needed, like in multi-cat homes. But at least twice a day. It takes only a minute or two, probably less time than it takes you to clean up their messes outside the box, so no excuse to avoid the chore. It’s part of good pet parenting, and the payoff is more than worth the effort. Your kitty will happily go back to using the litterbox so you won’t be cleaning up “accidents” around the house anymore, the house will smell much better, and everyone will be happy happy joy joy. A win-win for you and your cat.  🙂

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God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie.   ?

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008.  Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post LitterBox Is A Dirty Word. appeared first on BareFootPets.

My little Mia Bella is about 13 years old – I’ve had her since she was a baby. Mia Bella is a lovely lovely kitty, sweet and unassuming. Unfortunately, Mia Bella is also a “pariah” – the outcast of the family – the scaredy-cat — the one other cats pick on for reasons no one knows. Which means she spent most of her young life, day in and day out, in hiding for fear of being bullied. Mia Bella has seen many rescue dogs and cats come through our home over the years, and the dynamic in the home changes with every coming and going. Unfortunately, Mia Bella continued to be the pariah regardless who else was in the house – that was just her personality. It has been a huge challenge reprogramming her. But, through trial and error and intuition and perseverance, and unwaivering love and devotion, I’ve had great success encouraging her. And, based on our very happy outcome, I can share with you what I’ve discovered.

Reprogramming The Pariah Kitty’s Owner.

Before we can make any progress bringing a pariah kitty out of her shell, we need to reprogram you – the scaredy-cat’s owner. It’s on you to “even the playing field,” so to speak. As long as the owner doesn’t intervene and create new boundaries, the other kitties (let’s call them the bully kitties for grins) will continue to intimidate your pariah kitty with impunity. And your pariah kitty will never entirely trust you because, for all she can tell, you’re aligned with the bully kitties, make sense? So, see, your part is two-fold and very very critical to her wellbeing.

First Things First ~ Stop The Bullying.

First, you need to step in and begin to pro-actively disallow the bully kitties their intimidation tactics. This is best done with body language. Nothing verbal is needed–very important you understand this point. Even when they just sit and stare at your pariah–that’s total intimidation, believe it. So you need to be very focused on even the most subtle nuances and step in right then and there when it happens and cut it short. For your pariah to trust you, she needs you to advocate for her. You step in their line of vision and use your energy to break their stare or make them back away from her. Start “speaking” to the bully kitties through body language to demonstrate your disapproval of their behavior. It will take awhile for them to give in. After all, they’ve been doing it their way for some time now. But be persistent and consistent with them. And every time you correct the bully kitties, let them see you put your pariah kitty on your shoulder. This gives her a place of safety and status, so to speak. Unlike dogs, cats identify their territory vertically – the higher they are, the safer they feel and the more power they have. That will speak volumes to all of the kitties about the new and approved hierarchy in your home. It also will tell them that you’re the one in charge from now on.

Come Out, Come Out, Wherever You Are!

Second, draw your pariah out of her shell. This is best done by letting her see you constrain the other bully kitties AND making her part of the correction, from a safe distance on your shoulder. Start putting your pariah on your shoulder as if burping a baby. I know it sounds odd, but it’s not threatening like being face-to-face with you in your lap. To ensure she doesn’t try to jump if fear overcomes her, secure her on your shoulder by holding the very base of her tail. Where it attaches to her body, not too tight, just firm. This is a cat’s point of leverage and will help her to feel grounded and stable. I handle all my cats this way. It’s VERY effective and reassuring for them. Then walk slowly and casually throughout the house, without talking to her at all. Take your time, linger in every room, turn slowly so she can see everything.

This is Her Moment To Re-Discover Her Home.

She’ll learn very quickly that your shoulder is a “safe place” and no one can hurt her there. You’re building trust now. Let her see and feel the rhythm of your home from this new “safe place.” That’s why it’s very important that you don’t talk to her during this exercise. You can rub her with your forehead now and then, but no other input from you. This is her time to let her senses run free to discover and absorb and create a new relationship with her home from a safe place. She’s never had that sensory freedom because she’s always been in a fear-driven flight mode. Being safely up on your shoulder will also help her begin trusting you more. Up to now, you’ve been part of the problem because you weren’t part of the solution. Does that make sense? Do this every day as often as your schedule allows, and you’ll eventually feel her body start to relax. When she finally exhales and starts to purr, you’ll know she’s beginning to trust and you’ve made great headway.

A New, Balanced Hierarchy.

Now, back to the bully kitties. They need time out at least once every day so that your pariah can have free run of the house on her terms. A crate, or a bedroom, whatever, is fine. BUT – your pariah needs to be up on your shoulder and participating when you put the bully kitties away. She needs to see with her own eyes, from her safe place, that they cannot reach her or intimidate her. When you put the bully kitties in a room or crate and close the door behind you, be sure to have your pariah on your shoulder so she can see clearly what you’re doing as you leave the room. She needs to know with her own eyes that they’re behind that door now. If not, she’ll remain convinced they’re hiding in wait somewhere else to pounce on her. She won’t feel free to get down and explore the house during this free time you’ve given her.

You’ve Got Her Back ~ Always.

This is a process that will need to become a way of life, by the way. Doubtful there is an actual graduation day. You probably will need to maintain these practices always to keep the peace. Good news is, once you start “speaking” their language, it comes naturally and won’t seem like a chore anyway. In fact, I’m sure you already realize it feels very empowering to get that break-through and be able to communicate with another species on its own level. I get pretty excited myself. Another great result I’ve seen is that, with each new day that your pariah feels protected, she also now feels emboldened. She’s coming out of her shell finally, because she knows that you’ve got her back now.

The Rewards Are Heartwarming.

My Mia Bella still battles fears occasionally, but they’re greatly diminished. She’s had a taste of freedom from intimidation and has enjoyed glorious moments without fear. Her desire to continue that encourages her to be braver on her own. She’s blossoming. I see her venture out and explore on her own and play with some of the friendly kitties. She would not have dreamed to try it before. She’s making friends and building a very happy new life. And the difference is–she knows I’ve got her back now.

I figured this all out on my own. Didn’t read it in a manual or see it in a how-to video. And still I can say with all confidence that this process works. Give it a shot. The payoff is transcendent! In fact, Mia Bella herself confirms our success every day. Because, whenever she has a moment of feeling threatened, or if she just doesn’t want me to comb her or give her any medicine, instead of running behind the couch or under a bed, she comes running to me for my shoulder. Because, once on my shoulder, she knows, always a safe place – always. Now that’s a happy ending. I get teary-eyed just talking about it. Give it a try – be patient, good luck, and happy pet parenting!

** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **

God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie.   ?

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008.  Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post Bring Your Scaredy-Cat Out Of Her Shell. appeared first on BareFootPets.

Invest in good pet steps. Why? Dogs love to jump up on the furniture and down again, or in and out of the car. It’s cute and seems harmless, but here’s something important to consider: your dog’s anterior cruciate ligaments can be very easily ruptured or torn by this seemingly innocent up-and-down play. Anterior cruciate ligaments (ACLs) are the connecting tissue between the major bones of dogs’ back legs. Once that tissue is damaged, the dog becomes lame and can even develop degenerative joint disease. Corrective surgery is available, at a VERY high cost. But there’s an easy way for you to help prevent that damage happening to your dog in the first place–teach her to use pet steps. Yep, easy as that.

Jonah – Poster Dog For The Importance Of Pet Steps.

That reminds me of Jonah. Jonah is Milagro Senior Pet Refuge’s greatest success story (http://www.milagropets.org/the-power-of-life-and-love/). When we rescued Jonah, he had a hundred health issues going on that all needed immediate fixing. In fact, the vet said he probably only had a couple of weeks left to live and didn’t see the point of us even bothering to rescue him. One of those issues was that his ACLs in both back legs were completely torn and he was crippled–unable to walk or stand or even sit upright. He could only lie there. Talk about no quality of life! It tore me up to see him this way. Fortunately, a very kind donor offered the funds to have Jonah’s ACLs surgically fixed. The surgery was well over $3,000. Most people can’t afford that, can you?

So you can see how Jonah ended up at the shelter. Happens every day. People start out planning the best life for their pets but, when things like this happen and they can’t afford to fix it, it’s the pet who suffers. He lost his health, so now he loses his home, his family, and all too often his life. It doesn’t need to be that way-–all it takes is for you to teach your dog to use pet steps and ramps early on while he’s young. This will reduce the risk of ACL injury and help to protect his quality of health and life.

Choose The Right Pet Steps.

Fortunately for Jonah, Milagro was able to intervene and get him the help he needed. But that’s not normally the case. So be mindful-–provide your pet the steps and ramps for climbing that will protect his joints and ACLs, and your pocketbook, and also his future as a healthy, happy member of your family. Be sure to shop for the right steps-–the step surfaces should be non-skid so her feet don’t slip off, and the bottom of the unit should be non-skid so it stays in place on the floor. Lastly, be sure the unit is good and heavy so it doesn’t slide out from under your pet when she’s running up or down it. I’ve even had good luck with heavy duty stepstools from Lowes. Use your imagination. Just ensure they’re sturdy, stable, and non-skid.

One last tip- if your pet is a little older, or a little on the small side, get a RAMP instead of steps. A ramp allows the pet to move more smoothly in her own stride rather trying to get up steps that may be too high or far apart for her. There are some really nice steps and ramps to be found on Amazon.  I’ve spotlighted for you below a couple of really nice ones. They both have carpeted surfaces to give your pet traction, so that greatly reduces the risk of your pet slipping off and getting hurt. They both are appealing to look at and won’t be an eye sore in your home. And both are compact enough in size so they don’t take up precious space. Both are great choices.

Whether you choose steps or ramp, this is a very smart investment in your pet’s health and safety.

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God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie.   ?

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008.  Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post The Upside Of Pet Steps And Ramps. appeared first on BareFootPets.