Right now, many if not most shelters across the country still take the lazy path to sheltering by (1) allowing the rescue of pets from euthanasia (kill) lists to fall on the shoulders of outside pet rescue organizations, and (2) killing the majority of animals who end up in their facility, even though most of them are totally adoptable. Many shelters kill literally 70-80 percent or more of the animals they take in. This is a catastrophic failure because rescue organizations are limited in their resources and ability to recruit volunteer fosters on little-to-no notice, nor do they always have funds on-hand to pay exorbitant shelter fees to pull animals to safety. Also, it’s not rescue organizations’ responsibility to take on the shelter’s job in the first place. Rescue organizations can support, but not take over, the city and county shelters’ assigned mission of animal care and control.

Shelters Choose to Kill First.

As well, shelters also very shrewdly label healthy, adoptable pets as “unadoptable” for fake reasons, such as “behavioral,” “fearful,” “snotty nose,” etc., to justify killing innocent animals rather than try to find safe loving homes for them. These shocking, illicit tactics by shelter administrators who still operate under outdated policies to justify killing are unforgivable and need to change – NOW – before another precious animal’s life is extinguished.

Demand Enforcement of Compassionate Care.

I am a big supporter of The No Kill Advocacy, whose mission is to bring outdated animal welfare laws and practices into this century and to hold shelters accountable for adherence to new compassionate policies. The No Kill Advocacy truly advocates for animal welfare by (1) teaching shelter administrators how to do away with euthanasia as the first choice for pet population control, thereby becoming actual no-kill facilities, and (2) teaching the general public how to speak up and hold shelters accountable.

Use Your Voice for Shelter Animal Welfare.

You can tap into The No Kill Advocacy movement tutorial page by CLICKING HERE. Their tutorials should answer all your questions and guide you easily toward helping to save precious animals who just want to keep their lives. Once caring people really start pushing en masse for accountability in pet sheltering, the tables will start to turn and animals will be spared the “death walk” in these hell holes. No effort is too small or insignificant. Be part of the change!

The post Help Reform Your Local Animal Shelter appeared first on BareFootPets.

Sadly, too many of these high-energy pets end up in shelters, abandoned through no fault of their own, because the owners weren’t aware of this simple issue: high energy in pets, just like in kids, must be managed/burned off first in order for the pet to be able to focus, listen to you, and behave. Without this simple management tool, you fail your pet and put his life in jeopardy if you end up surrendering him to a shelter. Shelters typically classify high-energy pets as unadoptable and end up euthanizing them. So listen up – the fix is simple and immediate and makes everyone’s life better!

It’s so simple and easy to manage your pet’s high energy, if you understand the difference between “suppressing” your pet’s high energy and “burning it off.” Consider this — have you traveled on a really long flight, and well into the flight you find yourself getting antsy? Your legs begin to twitch, your feet tap, you constantly shift position in your seat? That’s built-up energy, an actual physical thing, not a made-up saying. Can you convince yourself to ignore the twitching and just sit still? Of course not. Built-up energy needs to be managed, not ignored or suppressed. You have to get up and move around, shake it off, literally burn it off, before you can go back to your seat and sit quietly, comfortably, and focused.

Look at young kids – without regular exercise and physical activity, they get antsy, wiggly, and what happens then? Well, if the parents just order them to “sit still” or “be quiet,” they can’t. The kids begin to act out and get into trouble. It’s not because they want to get into trouble; it’s because they are being controlled by pent-up, unmanaged energy. It’s actually not their fault. It’s the parents’ job to help manage/diffuse their kids’ pent-up energy. And, generally, drugs are not the answer. It’s a simple biological issue — just get them active and burn off the energy. Likewise, for pets, it’s the owners’ job to manage the pets’ level of energy to keep the pet in a better state of behavior, focus, and comfort.

The body’s energy cannot be just ignored; the body continues producing more and more energy, and the energy keeps piling up inside, energy on top of energy. The ONLY way to eliminate all this increasing energy is to physically work it off. It’s the same with animals; except animals can’t rationalize that, so it’s all on the owners to take charge of this issue.

Regular small bursts of exercise is the answer. One or two or more times a day, 20-30 minute bursts of activity are all that’s needed to diffuse excess built-up energy. With the excess high energy burned away, you and your pet can both relax and de-stress better. Your pet becomes more focused and trainable, and you become more at ease and patient.

Another benefit of managing your pet’s energy is that, once the built-up energy is diffused, your pet will be able to focus better on you and actually hear you and absorb training. You’ll have an infinitely better behaved pet if you make exercise a regular part of your routine. And not just a leisurely stroll down the driveway or a quick pottie break in the back yard, but an actual 20-30 minutes of vibrant activity – a run around the block, fetch with his favorite kong toy, swimming in the pool, etc.

Or, if weather prevents you from getting outside, you can still play inside – tag up and down the halls, wrestling on the bed, tug of war with a rope toy, climbing up and down the stairs, etc. Get creative – whatever gets his heart rate up and circulation going for 20-30 minutes will help burn off the energy. One, two, even three or more times a day depending on your pet’s energy level. No big marathon runs or workouts needed. You’ll find these daily little bursts of activity are lifesavers – you and your pet will both be so much happier and relaxed. Burning off energy also burns off tension, stress, and anxiety. Everyone wins!

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God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie.   

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008.  Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post Take Control Of Your Pet’s High Energy appeared first on BareFootPets.

Too Hot For Your Feet? Then It’s Too Hot For Hers Too.

Don’t make your dog walk on it. Simple as that.

Avoid Midday and Evening Walks When The Pavement Is Most Hot.

While we’re on the subject of “too hot,” you also should be very careful about what time of day you walk your pooch. In the heat of Summer, your little Precious can suffer heat stroke very quickly if you’re not paying attention. Get in the habit of waking a half hour earlier in the mornings so you can walk her before the sun is all the way up. Early morning is WAY better than evenings because the pavement has cooled down overnight and won’t scorch her little paws. If you walk in the evenings, don’t be fooled. Sure, the sun’s not bearing down on you, but the pavement hasn’t cooled down yet. It’s still giving off all the day’s heat and her little feet can still be burned. To know for sure, test your own bare foot. A good tip to know–asphalt can be way hotter than cement. Stay on the sidewalks or grass and avoid asphalt at all costs. Always take water with you and give her some as often as she’ll take it.

Booties ~ What A Great Idea!

A novel and very effective idea to protect your lovebug’s feet from hot or cold pavement is booties ~ you can buy them online or at any pet supply store; a great, fun little investment in your pet’s good health. Check out little Layla’s pink booties above. Adorable or what! The bottoms are a good solid rubber that doesn’t let heat or cold through.   🙂

Alternative To Walking Outdoors.

The best way to protect your pet’s health is to find somewhere INDOORS to walk her when the weather is too hot or too cold. Lowes, Home Depot, Petsmart, Petco for example. These are all ideal pet-friendly places – temperature controlled, safe from outdoor natural predators, and they encourage your pooch to interact with people and socialize. Your dog will LOVE you for it.  🙂

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God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie.   ?

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008.  Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post Pavement Too Hot For Her Tootsies? appeared first on BareFootPets.

How To Identify If Your Kitty Is Dehydrated.

How to tell your little one is dehydrated? As a loving kitty owner, you need to be very aware of your kitty’s behavior at all times so you can read the signs early. If you suspect kitty is not feeling well, pinch the skin up and down her back. Does it stay pinched and loose when you let go? Then she’s dehydrated. Make it a habit every day when you’re loving on your kitty to do the pinch test. Also, does she hover/linger over her water dish? She’s dehydrated. So, establish the good habit to support her kidney health by ensuring that she’s always hydrated. How do I do that? First of all, START EARLY. Don’t wait until she shows signs of kidney trouble. When the signs start, she’s already in trouble.

A Good Fountain Is Excellent Support For Kitty’s Hydration And Health.

The best way to help your kitty stay hydrated, hands-down, is with a food-grade ceramic drinking fountain and a good filter. Kitties are naturally fascinated by running water, which is a big help. Just leave a faucet on somewhere in the house and watch them come running. No doubt you’ve seen the cute videos on YouTube of kitties and faucets. I’ve discovered that even a kitty that’s not feeling well will hang around a fountain or running faucet. You can use this to your kitty’s advantage. Don’t wait for her to develop signs of poor kidney health. Start her on a fountain when she’s young to help discourage kidney troubles down the road.

Choosing A Fountain.

Having fresh water available to kitty at all times is paramount. Having a running fountain of fresh filtered water is even better, because it attracts her even when she’s not feeling well. This is an especially important time for her to be drinking more water. There are many places you can buy pet fountains. Definitely avoid plastic units. Plastic harbors bacteria. Ideally, you want a “food-grade” ceramic fountain–food-grade ceramic like the dishes people eat and cook on, not the ceramic that art pieces are made of because art glazes contain lead.

After much online research, I found “Fountains by Ebi” (http://ebifountains.com/).

You can custom-order the fountain to your liking as far as size and look and what type of filter you want in it. I’ve been using my Ebi fountain for several years now, and I promise you from personal experience it is one of the BEST INVESTMENTS you’ll ever make for your kitty’s health.

Added Hydration Support.

A kitty that’s already dehydrated will have a tough time drinking enough water to re-hydrate herself, even at the fountain. In these instances, you can give her a little extra support with “sub-q” fluids. Sub-q fluids must be prescribed by your veterinarian. It’s like a bag of IV fluid that you see in hospitals. The bag comes with a line, and you can use 10-20 needles per bag depending on the level of distress your kitty is in, and how much fluid your veterinarian recommends for her.

Before You Run Screaming For The Hills, Hear Me Out.

Your veterinarian can show you how to give the fluids to your kitty. Don’t be afraid of it. You just pull up a pinch of skin over her shoulders and insert the needle under the skin. Don’t go any deeper into tissue or muscle–just under the surface of the skin. The first time or two you’ll feel awful, like you’re hurting her. I almost fainted, because I’m afraid of needles. So I was feeling guilty for kitty AND i was trying not to throw up. But you’ll quickly get the hang of it and be able to insert the needle without her even noticing, especially because you know you’re helping her.

The needle simply goes just under the skin, NOT into a vein or muscle. Her body will quickly absorb the fluids and she’ll be feeling like a million dollars again in less than 30 minutes. I’ve found that having kitty sit in the bathroom sink while I give her the sub-q fluids helps to discourage her from struggling. She seems to feel safe all snuggled down in it. And I’m not wrestling with her to stay still, so the whole process is easier on both of us. She relaxes quite comfortably in the sink for the two or three minutes it takes to dispense the fluids under her skin. When you’re finished, massage her skin at the injection site for a couple of seconds to ensure the fluids don’t leak back out, and Voila!  You’re done and she’s already on her way to feeling better. Sub-q fluids are lifesavers–the best and fastest support for a dehydrated kitty and for a kitty with kidney disease.

Sub-Q Fluids Are Tremendous Support, But Not A Cure.

NOTE: Sub-q fluids are not a cure for kidney disease. They simply offer her much-needed comfort and desperately needed hydration that she can’t get on her own by drinking water. I make it a point to keep a supply of sub-q fluids and needles on-hand at all times. In my rescue organization, we’ve saved more lives by having sub-q fluids immediately available right when we need them, rather than having to wait for a scheduled appointment and an emergency run to the vet. Hydration isn’t just a matter of the kitty’s comfort. It can be a matter of her life, and time and treatment are of the essence. It’s a glorious feeling to know you’re caring in such a great way for this precious little soul. Because of you, she has the healthiest, most wonderful life.

Here’s a cute video of Princess, a Milagro Senior (www.milagropets.org). She actually prefers to drink from our little fish tank instead of the kitty fountain. There are no fish in it, but Princess enjoys it so much we keep it set up just for her. And that’s cool, too. As long as it’s clean and she’s drinking, that’s the main thing. See how you can make the critical act of staying hydrated fun for your kitty? Be creative.

So your take-away tip on this subject – invest in a food-grade ceramic fountain for your kitty or, like Princess, a running fish tank. Be very sure the water is always clean, and always always always make sure she’s hydrated. If your kitty needs more critical care, ask your veterinarian about sub-q fluids.

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God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie.

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008.  Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post Hydrate Your Kitty And Save Her Kidneys. appeared first on BareFootPets.

Foxtail Plants: How to Find Them on Dogs and Why They’re So Dangerous

By Christina Fernandez, DVM, DACVECC on Jun. 30, 2020

Foxtail plants are a weed-type grass that can cause serious problems for dogs.

Flourishing in the summer months, the seeds from these annoying weeds are designed to burrow into the ground. If they attach to your pet’s coat and burrow into the skin, this can lead to pain, infection, and sometimes more serious issues. Foxtails can also be inhaled, lodged in the ears, swallowed, and embedded in the paws.

Luckily, there are things you can do to try to keep your dog safe from the dangers of foxtails. Here’s a breakdown of what the foxtail plant is and why it’s dangerous for your dog.

What Is a Foxtail? What Do Foxtails Look Like?

Foxtails—also called grass seed awns, mean seeds, timothy, cheatgrass, June grass, Downy Brome, or other local names—are an annual summer grass. They start growing in spring and are in full bloom by summer. They will then die during the winter.

Shaped like the tail of a fox, the tip has seeds arranged in spikey clusters with backward-facing barbs.¹ The spikes and barbs allow for one-way burrowing, which is great news for the foxtail but bad news for dogs.

Here are some pictures of a foxtail plant:

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Here are pictures of the dangerous foxtail awns:

_{Shown: Common wheat grass awns / Image credit: Smith Veterinary Hospital} 

_{Shown: Brittle grass awn breaking into smaller pieces / Image credit: FloridaGrasses.org}

Where Are Foxtails Found?

Foxtails can be found anywhere in the United States but are most common in the West. They are most often found in these places:

• Hiking trails
• Parks
• Flatlands
• Meadows
• Open grassy fields

While they are less common in urban areas, they can still be found in areas where grass is allowed to grow uncontrolled.

When the weather is warm, the foxtail dries out and hitches a ride on anything passing by, including dogs. This hitchhiking behavior is important for foxtail seed dispersal.¹

Why Are Foxtails Dangerous for Dogs?

Foxtails can attach to any part of your dog’s body and start the burrowing process. This commonly includes:²

• Eyes
• Eyelids
• Ears
• Nostrils
• Mouth
• Spaces between the toes (in the paw pads)

In some cases, foxtails can burrow through the skin, finding their way into the spine or chest and belly cavities. Once inside, the foxtail continues to burrow, bringing bacteria and dirt along with it.

This can lead to much more serious conditions because internal organs may be affected. The foxtail will continue to cause problems until it is removed.

In some cases, advanced diagnostic tests and procedures may be required to identify and remove the foxtail.

What Are the Signs That a Dog Has Foxtails on Them?

If you live in an area where foxtails are abundant, here are some signs you can look for:

• Head shaking
• Limping
• Pawing at the face
• Snorting
• Sneezing
• Bloody nose
• Excessive licking of an area on the body

Other signs can show up one to several days later. These may include:

• Lumps
• Bumps
• Draining tracts
• Areas of redness or tenderness
• Inflammation
• Lethargy
• Depression
• Decreased appetite

In the worst case scenarios, an embedded foxtail can make it to vital organs, including the lungs, spinal cord or brain, heart, and abdominal organs, causing symptoms specific to that organ. In very bad cases, surgery may be required to remove foxtails or treat infection resulting from embedded foxtails.

How to Remove Foxtails From a Dog

Early removal of the foxtail is important. If you live in a foxtail-prone area, ALWAYS check your dog after being outside.

If you see a foxtail on your dog’s fur or skin, you can attempt to remove it with tweezers.

If you are seeing any of the signs listed above or signs that a foxtail has penetrated the skin or entered an opening on your dog’s body, bring your dog to the vet. This includes the ears, nose, or mouth.

Trying to remove the foxtail yourself from a body cavity may result in an incomplete removal, with pieces of the foxtail still embedded in your dog’s skin and ready to burrow deeper. Foxtails can travel a great distance through body cavities, so it’s important that the full foxtail is removed.

How to Prevent Foxtails From Injuring Your Dog

There are a few ways you can avoid foxtails and keep your dog safe.

• Dogs with long coats are more likely to pick up these annoying hitchhikers. Consider a trim for the summer to reduce the likelihood of attachment.
• Working dogs, or dogs that spend a lot of time in tall grass, may be outfitted with a commercially available vest that covers and protects the chest and abdomen.
• Avoid foxtail-prone areas to prevent injury to your dog.
• Use a short leash when walking your dog.
• If foxtails grow in your yard, make plans to remove them or call a landscaper for assistance. 
• Check for foxtails frequently and after periods of outdoor play, especially if you hike or spend time in foxtail-prone areas.

References:

1. Foxtail (diaspore). (2019, June 2). In Wikipedia. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foxtail_(diaspore)
2. Brennan KE, Ihrke PJ. Grass awn migration in dogs and cats: A retrospective study of 182 cases. Am Vet Med Assoc. 1983.182(11):1201-1204

WRITTEN BY

Christina Fernandez, DVM, DACVECC, Veterinarian

Dr. Christina Fernandez obtained her DVM degree from St. George’s University in 2007 and membership with the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons in 2008. She completed a three-year residency training program and obtained board certification with the American College of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care in 2013. Dr. Christina has a background in veterinary academia, private specialty practice, and more recently in the animal health industry. She has practiced in both the USA and abroad.

Dr. Christina is a published author and her veterinary interests include supportive care of the critically ill patient and management of complex diseases. She lives in FL with her husband (also a veterinarian), their two daughters, three dogs, one cat and guinea pig named Herman. Dr. Christina enjoys all things CrossFit and spending time outdoors with her family.

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God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie. 

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008.  Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

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The post Danger of the Foxtail Plant appeared first on BareFootPets.

Okay, How Do I Begin?

I know it’s tough to carve out time in your already hectic day to brush Fido’s teeth, every day after day no less. You already dread it, don’t you. Let’s make it easy then. First step–whenever you find little moments and you’re sitting around snuggling with Fluffy, massage her gums at the same time. See–no extra time needed. Massage very lightly, ok, don’t get all invasive on her like the bathroom scene with Channing Tatum and Jonah Hill in 21 Jump Street. At this point, you’re just getting her used to your fingers in her mouth, like it’s no big deal. I introduce my kitties and pups to gum massage by hand-feeding them cat kibble one piece at a time. They love being hand-fed so, when i start checking out their gums, they’re pretty much okay with it. Massage her gums lightly and very briefly, then stop, before she has a chance to object. Go on your merry way like it was no big deal. [TIP: Knowing when to ignore your pet is a tremendously effective training and handling tool ~ more on that later.] By making gum massage part of snuggle time and creating a positive experience instead of a dreaded chore, she’ll come to associate it with pleasure. Keep this tip in your memory bank.

Baby Steps … You’re Getting There

Once you’ve got your pet feeling okay about having her teeth and gums handled, you can introduce a toothbrush or rubber thumb. I prefer the rubber thumb because it’s similar to your finger and seems less foreign to the pet. Before you go shoving them in her mouth, tho, let her sniff them and get familiar, even batting them around like toys. Remember, baby steps. Use the brush to massage her teeth without paste for the first few times. Once she’s comfortable with the toothbrush or rubber thumb, then try adding a tiny dab of flavored pet toothpaste. She may not be sold right away–don’t force it. Never force it. But definitely keep the massaging in your routine and eventually try adding toothpaste again. You’ll get there eventually.

Here is a really good pet toothpaste I like to recommend for you. It’s popular because it’s made in the USA, it’s safe, pets like it, and it works!

In the meantime, stimulating her gums is a good thing. If, however, you have a pet who just refuses to warm up to a toothbrush, no worries. There are options. There are some great dental washes for pets that you put in their drinking water. Can’t get any easier than that!  Here’s a good one. Completely odorless/tasteless so your pet won’t detect it and get all fussy. It’s made in the USA and completely safe for your pet.

I also found this product below that you spray right onto their teeth and gums and, as the pet licks his lips and sloshes it around, it begins to reduce plaque and heal his mouth. It’s all organic, no chemicals to create allergies or inflammation, and makes your pet’s breath very fresh and sweet so you just want to get all up in his face and snuggle with him!  🙂  Give it a try!

It’s NEVER Too Late.

Ideally, you want to start your pet’s dental care when she’s a puppy or kitten. If she’s older, tho, no worries. Always better late than never at all. Just remind yourself how important dental care is to her overall health.

Bottom line is you may have to try a few approaches to your pet’s dental care before you find the one your pet responds to, and that’s ok, because there are many products of all kinds out there to choose from. One of them will work for you. As long as you’re patient and consistent, you’ll get there. Just keep your eye on the prize–longterm good health and protection for your beloved furbaby.

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God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie.   ?

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008.  Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post Ignore Your Pet’s Teeth … They’ll Go Away. appeared first on BareFootPets.

Why Is Chipping So Important?

Pets become lost for many reasons, some of them preventable, others unavoidable mishaps. Compare losing a pet to losing a child–you need turn your eyes away for only seconds and they can be gone. You can be the world’s best pet parent, and it can still happen. We’re all human. The lawn care guy leaves your gate open, the cat darts out the door when you answer to sign for a Fedex, the dog jumps out the window of your car when he sees a cat on the sidewalk, etc.

And, of course, there’s always the unfortunate possibility of your pet being stolen. Thieves can easily figure out your routine, when you’re not home, and they can climb your fence, grab little Fluffy and be gone in a New York minute. Without Fluffy having a chip, most likely you’ll never get her back. Chipping tells the finders you are the rightful owner and eliminates any claims someone else may be trying to make for your pet.

Posting on social media is a huge help, for sure, but that depends on people actually reading the posts, and then those specific people being in the right place at the right time to find the lost pet. With chipping, the owner’s contact information is secured right on the pet at all times. Chipping is hands-down the best way to recover a lost or stolen pet.

What Does A Chip Do And How Do I Get My Pet Chipped?

A chip is a nearly microscopic little disk, if you will, that is inserted with a needle, as if giving the pet a shot. Typically, chips are implanted between the shoulder blades, where it will remain permanently. The injection is nearly painless for most pets. The chip is programmed with a serial number that is registered to you and contains your name, address, and phone. Some chip manufacturers also provide a website where you can opt to set up a profile for your pet with photos and certain identifying information to make identification even more exact. You can get your pet chipped at your vet or most pet stores. The cost is generally $35 to $45. Most rescue organizations include micro-chipping in the adoption process if you adopt the pet from them.

If your pet shows up at a shelter, the folks there have a scanner gun that they will scan over your pet. If the pet is chipped, the scanner gun will capture the information, and they can call you immediately. If someone finds your pet and wants to help get her back home safely rather than drop her off at a shelter, the finder can go to any PetSmart, Petco, veterinarian, etc., and ask them to scan the pet for a chip. There is no charge for simply scanning. Once the rescuer has your contact information, they can let you know that Fluffy is safe and sound and can get her back home to you. Chipping is critical to your pet’s wellbeing and keeping your family whole. There is no better substitute.

Being Chipped Can Mean Life Or Death To Your Pet.

Chipping also protects your pet from being killed should she end up in a shelter. Shelters screen incoming strays for chips. If your pet is chipped, then all is well, because first thing they will do is call you and you can go get her safely back home. But be aware–shelters typically deal with overcrowding, so they don’t invest lots of time trying to identify lost or stray pets. Sadly, kill rates for shelters across the nation are still very very high. If your pet is not chipped and ends up in a shelter, she is in extreme danger. They may put her to death in a matter of hours and you’ll never even know. You may still be driving your neighborhood, posting flyers, searching hopefully and calling for her, not knowing she’s no longer alive. Avoid such a terrible heartbreak–chip your beloved pet. Cats and dogs both. If you love her, chip her.

While We’re On The Subject Of Shelter Kill Rates …

Awareness is growing nationwide about the epidemic of high shelter kill rates, especially for cats. Barely 1 in every 10 cats gets out of a shelter alive–there is no excuse for this. While many shelters are finally abandoning old set ways of using euthanasia to “control” what they identify as “pet over-population,” we still have a very long way to go to stop the terrible killings. If you have an interest in learning more or volunteering to help in this overdue animal welfare revolution, get this book–Redemption by Nathan Winograd. It’s truly eye-opening. When you finish the book, pass it on, keep it going. It’s on our generation to get the word out and get the wheels in motion.

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God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie.   ?

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008.  Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post If You Love Her, Chip Her. appeared first on BareFootPets.

Thankfully, the leash was attached to the pup’s harness, not its collar. The pup could have been horribly injured, choked, and even died, if the leash had been attached to the collar around its neck. This is a very important reminder that collars are just ornamental and for dog tags only.

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God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie. 

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) ) in 2008. Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post Another Argument For Harnesses appeared first on BareFootPets.

BareFootPets supports and embraces Nathan Winograd’s moral position on sheltering in the U.S. We are always happy to pass on some of his posts, such as this one below, casting a spotlight on the heartbreaking failures of our nation’s shelter system to serve and actually protect the animals in its care. We highly recommend following Nathan’s blog articles on the subject. Click on any link within the post below to go to his site and sign up.

When it comes to dog behavior, you can’t believe everything you hear or see

Not long ago, Oswald, my dog, was playing with two other dogs. It was loud, mouthy, physical, and pure joy. But to the uninitiated, it looked and sounded rough. In fact, an employee at the facility we were visiting ran over to see if everything was ok because they had a report that one dog was “attacking” another dog and that a “pit bull” was involved. It was not only all play, but the dogs involved were Oswald, a Boston Terrier mix, and two Jack Russell Terriers. The experience underscores how easily people misidentify dog behavior and, consequently, how thoroughly shelters fail dogs when they are surrendered (ostensibly) for “aggression” or “behavior.” ¹

Too many shelters immediately kill dogs when surrendered for “aggression” or other “behavior problems.” They label them “unadoptable” based on the claims of the person surrendering them without a thorough, independent investigation. These facilities may falsely claim they are either No Kill or making progress toward No Kill. But shelters that do this are not No Kill. And more broadly, they are thoroughly failing dogs.

People misinterpret behavior

Numerous studies have found that,

The ability of owners to correctly identify canine behavior is poor, despite most dog owners rating their understanding of dog behavior highly. Therefore, relinquishment is likely to at least partially reflect the owner’s perception that a behavior is a problem, due to unmet expectations or a disparity between owner lifestyle and the needs of the dog, rather than simply canine behavioral disorders.

For example, “Barking and growling are not isomorphic [synonymous] with ‘aggression,’” writes the editor-in-chief of the Journal of Veterinary Behavior: Clinical Application and Research. Nor are mouthiness and other behaviors typically labeled as “resource guarding” behavior, “jealousy,” or “aggression.” Often, the dog is just seeking information: 

When dogs ask questions of and gain information… in active interactions, tactile exchanges are frequent and complex, often involving mouthing, an activity that humans both misunderstand and actively discourage. 

Dogs are asking questions to understand their environment in the only way their biology allows — through a complex series of barking, growling, tail wagging, posturing, and mouthing. And because we don’t understand those complex interactions, we often falsely conclude they are acting “aggressively.” 

In addition, there are cases of people falsely claiming the dog has behavior problems to alleviate guilt for surrendering their dog; disgruntled neighbors and estranged spouses who surrender dogs out of spite, and bites that turn out to be provoked or an accident. As such, shelter staff must view public accounts of “behavior” with a healthy dose of skepticism.

Shelter staff misinterprets behavior

They must also weigh in-shelter evaluations similarly. When shelter staff evaluate dogs, they must consider that dogs are under duress in shelters and often act in ways dissimilar to their behavior outside of the shelter. This evaluation must also account for the fact that these dogs have experienced recent trauma (including separation from their families). The process must also rule out a medical origin for the perceived behavior. Finally, it must explore all possible solutions and alternative placements.

One analysis of two of the most popular temperament tests for aggression used in shelters found that their predictive ability was no better than a coin toss. Add shelter staff who don’t care about killing dogs, are explicitly hired to kill dogs, and actively look for reasons to kill dogs, and many dogs don’t stand a chance.

By contrast, shelters that do not use temperament testing as a “pass/fail” proposition demonstrate that 90% of dogs who failed a temperament test and were sent to a trained foster home for further evaluation and behavior modification were rehabilitated and safely adopted. This included dogs with barrier reactivity, fear-based aggression, resource guarding, kennel stress, prey drive, and bite history. Some dogs also had secondary issues, including extremely high energy, possible dog aggression, dog selectivity, fear of men, undersocialization, separation anxiety, and reactivity. In the end, the percentage of dogs who are a threat to public safety is incredibly low, amounting to less than ½ of 1% of all shelter intakes. As such, even when some form of “aggression” is involved, it can almost always be rehabilitated. 

Making shelters fair to dogs

So how can shelters protect dogs and people? How can shelter staff feel confident they are doing everything possible for every single animal every single time?

In addition to group housing, dog-dog play, toys, walks, human socialization, visual access outside their kennels, the ability to smell and touch people, and music with soft human voices, The No Kill Advocacy Center, my organization, has developed an “Animal Evaluation Matrix” that includes behavior protocols, with forms and checklists to increase accountability and improve performance. These protocols were created in collaboration with some of the most successful shelter directors in the country — directors running municipal and animal control-contracted shelters with 99% placement rates for dogs.

For example, after the Matrix was implemented in one municipal shelter that takes in 6,000 dogs a year, behavior killing dropped sevenfold to less than 1%. At the same time, despite an increase in the placement rate of 42%, a 21% increase in human residents, and a growth in the overall number of dogs in the community, serious dog bites declined communitywide by 89%. The Matrix works! 

Anything less, including killing a dog based solely on reported history, is a gross betrayal. It is inconsistent with a mission of animal protection. And it cannot be justified under a (false) mantle of public safety.

________________________________

Fn¹ The report of “aggression” involving a “pit bull” also shows why relying on press and public accounts of dog bites is grossly unfair, especially to “pit bulls.” Breed identification of pit bull-type dogs by shelter staff and veterinarians have been shown to be unreliable. In particular, 50% of dogs labeled as pit bulls lacked DNA breed signatures of breeds commonly classified as pit bulls. Other studies found misidentification by “experts” at even higher rates. If the so-called “experts” are so often wrong, relying on lay people’s breed descriptions is thoroughly arbitrary. But even when they do get it right, the breed of a dog indicates how they look, not how they behave. Dogs targeted for breed-discriminatory laws are not more likely to bite, do not bite harder, and breed-discriminatory laws do not result in fewer dog bites or bite-related hospitalization rates. In addition to killing dogs who have done nothing wrong, enforcement is expensive with no measurable impact on public safety.

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God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie.   

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008. Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post Failing Dogs appeared first on BareFootPets.

First Make A List

Consider what should be done before the actual move, like installing a dog door in the new house, constructing a new enclosure, blocking off rooms in your new house that will be off-limits to the pets, etc. Below is a sample list for ideas to help you plan. For me, it was extra important to plan ahead and have a list because we were moving cross country. Packing up a whole house, two vehicles, six cats, and a dog. It was going to be a two-day drive straight through, roughly 36 hours, longer if we stopped overnight at a hotel. The animals’ mental and physical comfort for such a long drive depended heavily on my being diligent to consider all details and scenarios before potential situations arose.

• Make certain all pets are current on licensing and vaccinations before the move
• Stock the car with ample food, water, pee pads, and wet wipes for the trip
• Hire builder to install pet enclosure and dog door at new home before moving date
• Locate new veterinarian in new neighborhood and gives heads-up records are coming
• Ask current veterinarian to send records to new veterinarian and print a copy for yourself
• Have crates clean and ready with food, water, and pee pads, to load pets before movers arrive
• Cover pets’ crates with lightweight sheet to remove visual stimulation – will help to calm them
• Move pets/crates to a place where they can’t see or hear the house being packed up
• Harness pets before movers arrive and keep harnesses on at all times till move is complete
• Be sure harnesses have name tags with phone number(s) in case pet should bolt
• Keep crates covered with a lightweight sheet during travel to prevent panic or motion sickness
• Put pets/crates in a quiet room with door closed at new house during unloading
• Anchor crates in car so they don’t shift and toss pets about
• Put pets in same crate only if they get along and won’t fight

Start Your List Early

I’m a Type A personality when it comes to preparations, so probably you’ll look at my list and think – wow, is that overkill! And that’s cool. Make your list your own – whatever details are unique and important to you and your pet family. The important thing is to do as much as possible before moving day, and to minimize the chaos and stress for your pets through the whole process. These little details, like covering the crate with a light sheet, can make all the difference to keeping your pet calm. They’ll fall in love with your new home much more easily and quickly if you can prevent as much trauma as possible beforehand. And don’t forget – the better prepared you are ahead of moving day, the less stress you’ll be putting on yourself, so the better it is for you, too!

Good Luck and Happy Trails!

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God Bless and Happy Pet Parenting!

With love and good wishes,
jeannie. 

About jeannie:  I’ve been pro-actively involved in pet rescue all of my life. I founded Milagro Senior Pet Refuge© (Phoenix) in 1998, and BareFootPets (TM) in 2008. Animal welfare has always been and will always be my heart’s work. If my only legacy is that I save a handful of precious souls that would not survive otherwise, I’m good with that.

The post Moving With Pets appeared first on BareFootPets.